Today I want to do a pictorial to show you how I create my most wearable blue eyeshadow look. Wearable is going to be a word that everyone uses differently, but I find that if you are going to do a blue eye look, this one is the most approachable. That is mainly because we are going to keep the crease neutral, and reserve the lid for that pop of colour.
My favourite palette for this kind of look is Colourpop Dream St. You get a lot of beautiful neutrals, with a few blues to mix things up. I specifically love the tones of these metallic blues. Instead of being super bright and out there, they are a bit toned down and more jewel-toned, again adding to the wearability.
Below is what we are going to create today!
When creating any eye look, I use a variety of blending brushes of different sizes. Ever since purchasing Hakuhodo brushes last Fall, those are all I use! From biggest to smallest:
J5522 : This is a larger domed blending brush that works well for adding your first transition shade into the crease. You can use this brush with liquids, creams or powder shadows. This brush is made with goat bristles.
B142 : This is a medium-sized tapered blending brush that allows slightly more precise application into the crease. This brush can also be used for highlighting, and has goat bristles.
J146 : This is a small tapered blending brush allowing precise colour application into the outer corner or crease. The bristles are made from goat.
G5534 : This is a very small tapered blending brush allowing excellent precision. The bristles are a mix of blue squirrel. I swear this blue squirrel brush is the softest of the bunch, although they all feel really high quality and soft. It’s a little disturbing the bristles are squirrel, but this was the exact size and shape I was looking for. This is great for getting in to hard to reach places, and applying shadow just above a cut-crease.
Let’s get into this tutorial!
To start, I always prep my lid by applying a regular liquid concealer. I like to use the Maybelline Fit Me Concealer, which has a good consistency and amount of pigmentation. Depending on the kind of look I am doing, I will either set or not set the concealer. For more vibrant and colourful looks, I do not set my concealer. For this look today, I did set my concealer with the Maybelline Fit Me Loose Setting Powder. Any translucent power would work!
Next, I started by applying my first transition shade, Shooting Star. This is a lovely neutral light brown that builds up really nicely. When adding this first transitional shade, I will usually use a combination of the J5522 and B142 brushes. When I’m having trouble with getting a smooth blend into the brow bone, sometimes I will dip into my translucent powder, or simply a skin-coloured eyeshadow shade to blend out that upper transition. I usually don’t have that issue with Colourpop eyeshadows, however.
Once you have the base colour for your crease laid down, you can deepen the outer corner, pulling it slightly into the crease. I did this with the shade Elfish, which is a deep matte brown. I often start by applying a deeper shade with a medium sized brush (B142), to blend it well into the crease shade, and then move to a smaller brush (J146), to add depth with precision.
If you are mostly happy with the depth that you have achieved (I like to add a bit more later on in the process), you can go ahead and cut the crease with a white concealer. I currently use the Colourpop No Filter Matte Concealer in the shade Fair 00, which is a white and I use the MAC 248 Small Eye Shader.
Most people want the cut-crease to end up just above your natural crease, so that the lid colour can be seen when looking forward. An easy way to determine where this is is by “stamping” it. First, apply concealer from your inner corner to about halfway across your lid just along the part of your lid that is closest to the lash line. Then, look all the way up to the ceiling one or twice. This should have caused the concealer that you applied to “stamp” on the upper part of your lid, just above your crease. This provides a nice guideline for where you should fill in the rest of your concealer.
After you have your guideline, proceed to fill in the rest of your lid with concealer. I only usually take the concealer 1/2 to 3/4 of the way across the lid to the outer corner. But you could take it all the way across if you wanted to do a full cut-crease.
Overall, don’t worry too much about accuracy, just try your best. I’m not usually too careful to get a nice line, although it does look pretty good below (must have been a good day!) Once you apply the lid shades and reblend everything, it won’t really matter. Also, don’t over do it with the concealer. You are just applying a thin layer to make it tacky, essentially.
Now that your concealer has been laid down, you can apply lid shades. I used two different shimmer shades, Kaleidoscope, a light silvery blue, and Mermaid Boy, a deep metallic teal. I prefer to apply shimmers to my lids by pressing them on with my finger. This is the best way to transfer the maximum amount of pigment to your lid. To apply lid shades to precise areas, such as close to the periphery of the cut-crease, I use a firm flat shader brush, the Urban Decay Pro Flat Eyeshadow Brush. I don’t usually wet it, but I do if I need to.
After I have applied my lid shades, I always go back and blend the outer corner with either my original matte shade, or a deeper matte shade, precisely with small circular/back and forth motions. You essentially want the transition between the shimmer and the matte shades in the outer corner to not be noticeable (unless you want it to be a full cut crease). If you find that you have lost too much of the shimmer shade, press some more on with your finger. Go back and forth with the shimmer and the outer corner mattes until you are happy with the blend and the depth. At this point I decided to throw on a liquid eyeliner.
Once I am done the upper lid eyeshadow, I clean up any fall out and do the rest of my makeup. Finishing off the eye look with shadows on the lower lash line is usually one of the last steps in my routine. Here I simply blended a bit of Shooting Star and Elfish with a pencil brush on the lower lash line. I finished off the look with the black pencil eye liner, and mascara!
And that’s the finished look!
I really hope that this pictorial has helped to inspire you into creating slightly more colourful looks, and that blue feels slightly more approachable now!
If you have any questions at all, or if anything is unclear, do not hesitate to comment below! What kind of a tutorial do you want to see next?